Amsterdam

Amsterdam’s reputation precedes it arguably more than any other city in Europe, but there are many fascinating layers to this city beyond the coffeeshops and prostitutes that make it one of the most dynamic and enjoyable tourist destinations in Western Europe for any type of visitor.

Amsterdam is a tiny city full of huge contrasts. Narrow, cobbled 17th century alleys intersect bemusingly with the glaring red lights and glossy storefronts of the central Red Light District. Cruise past a few of its 165 quietly elegant canals lined with gabled houses flaunting Golden Age façades, and cross some of the 1,281 scenic bridges offering exquisite views of the dark green reflective waters of the tranquil grachts. Then head in for coffee in one of the many eccentric and artsy restaurants surrounding the center, or go for lunch in a traditional brown café, some of which brew their own beer. Take a tour through the timeless beauty of Rembrandt and Vermeer at the Rijksmuseum, or stumble into the sensory overload of a cutting edge, futuristic art gallery full of energetic, funky crowds and pumping techno music. With a firm foundation of tolerance and tradition, and a cross-section of old world charm and modern liberal progressivism as its framework, it is hard not to be drawn into Amsterdam’s ever-evolving, yet open and inviting, front door.

For a bit of culture, the Rijksmuseum is world famous mainly for its Rembrandt collection (though the entire museum is worth exploring in depth), the Van Gogh Museum provides a perfect overview of the life’s work of this brilliant Dutch artist, and the Anne Frank Huis simply cannot be missed. There are also impressive film, theatre and photography museums as well as the unique Houseboat Museum and the architecturally stunning NEMO science and technology centre. Various exhibitions and shows are constantly taking place, so it is a good idea to pick up a copy of Amsterdam Weekly, a free English magazine with listings of all the events happening at the moment. Catching a concert at the Paradiso or a football match at the Ajax stadium could be delightfully unexpected additions to your stay. At the end of April the Queensday celebrations draw huge crowds and huge-er parties. Accommodation is expensive and difficult to find, but if you plan it well, you can jump in and let the Dutch show you how to really let loose.

On a sunny day, the Vondelpark is packed with bikers, picnickers, and fun-loving youth “watching the roses grow.” When the sun is shining, and after a long night of debauchery in the city, it is the best place to relax and recover, and is just as important to visit as any museum. Although a foot crossing of the city would take less than an hour, the best way to see the city, as the locals do, is to rent a bike for a day or two and join the some 600,000 others winding through the surprisingly uncongested streets. Seeing Amsterdam by bike allows you to fully realise the village-like feel of the city. Another great way to spend an afternoon is to take a self-guided bike tour of the windmills in the serene Waterlands area north of Centraal Station.

Don’t be intimidated by the tram system (unless you stumble onto the tracks into oncoming traffic a, a far too often occurrence with visitors), with its overlapping routes and difficult stop names, it is frequent and straightforward, and if you need help the driver can tell you everything you need to know. Pick up a Strippenkart at any supermarket, post office or tobacco shop (its better value than buying individual rides on the tram), tell the conductor your destination, and they will stamp your pass accordingly. Tram service ends just after midnight, when night buses start their routes. Taxis can be very expensive, so it is best to avoid having to use them. Besides, it is more fun (though not as comfortable) to hitch a ride on the back of a friend’s bike..

Amsterdammers hold a keen interest in their city’s progressive social landscape, and though they take pride in living in one of Europe’s hippest and desirable destinations, they are still some of the warmest, most welcoming metropoles of any European city. Their love for all things friendly and atmospheric can be summed up in their favorite word gezellig, where a loose translation would be “cosy” or “convivial.” Gezellicheid is a feeling which plays an important role in daily life, and you will often hear many things, not just social gatherings, described as gezellig. So don’t be afraid to strike up a conversation in a café, or chat at the bar about the infamous Dutch weather. Locals for the most part are open and talkative, and since most of them at least speak English, if not also German and French, they are usually happy and eager to take a minute to answer your questions.

The policy of tolerance does mean that coffee shops are allowed to sell marijuana and other soft drugs, and the prostitutes are allowed to sell sex, but these things are strictly regulated and controlled. While you are likely to see smartly dressed women sitting for a lunchtime joint, or men openly negotiating through the red light windows, the ubiquitousness and availability of these activities leaves many locals simply indifferent. Most of the time the drunken antics in the streets are the product of frenzied tourists. So have a good time, but don’t take it too far, and try to remember to keep things gezellig.