London

Eating

London has never really been considered a culinary destination with most people's idea of British food consisting of overcooked veggies, corned beef, jellied eels, pork pies and fish & chips. Fortunately many Londoners have begun to appreciate their city's ethnic diversity and the wealth and variety of various national cuisines that have transplanted themselves here, which has led to a big improvement in the city's selection of restaurants.

If you're looking for something traditional, many of London's pubs serve inexpensive hearty meals; but for a uniquely London meal you may want to head to the East End and try some jellied eels (but watch out for the bones).

London's parks, gardens, squares and open spaces (there's 1,800 of them) provide a lovely setting for a picnic and Marks & Spencer's is the best spot to stock up on picnic food. There are branches in the Whitley's shopping centre in Bayswater, on Oxford Street near Oxford Circus or near Marble Arch (handy for a picnic in Hyde Park).

Cheaper options include the bigger supermarket s such as the Sainsbury on Cromwell Road and the Tesco on the corner of Cromwell and Earls Court Roads, both in Earls Court as well as the smaller Sainsbury Local and Tesco Metro supermarkets that are more plentiful in central London.

Drinking

London's pubs are among the city's main attractions and are some of the best places to immerse yourself in the local culture. Traditional British pubs offer an authentic ambience where you're almost guaranteed a good time and it is well worth the effort to sample as many pubs as you can afford. Some real gems include places like the Builder's Arms (1 Kensington Court Place, Kensington, London W8; Tube High Street Kensington) or Captain Kidd (108 Wapping High Street, London E1; Tube Wapping), although virtually every neighbourhood has a cosy pub with an unbeatable atmosphere.

With so many backpackers living and working in London it has a vibrant travellers' scene with lots of bars catering to the backpacking market, which means you can have a great time out on the town with other travellers although it can sometimes be too easy to miss out on meeting up with the locals. These pubs include the Redback Tavern in Acton Town (best known for its live music) and the popular Walkabout pub (with branches in Covent Garden, Islington and Shepherds Bush).

However the granddaddy of all the backpacker bars is undoubtedly the Church (The Forum, 9-17 Highgate Road, Kentish Town; tube, train Kentish Town; tel (020) 7284 1001; website www.thechurch.co.uk). This is like no other place you've ever seen. If you've come to London to party hard this is a place to get going on a Sunday afternoon but if you've come to London to get some culture and meet the locals over a quiet beer in a traditional pub, then you'll hate this place. The Church started back in 1979 when a group of Aussies living in London got together at a local pub every Sunday to get smashed. Over time this tradition gained a huge following and has moved location a number of times before settling at its most recent home at the Forum in Kentish Town. Every Sunday afternoon, the Church is packed with sweaty bodies trying to dance, get laid and sing along with Khe Sahn. Don't expect traditional pub decor, the management of The Church believe in interior decoration with alcohol – that is the more you drink the better it looks. Typical church decor consists of knee-deep beer cans complemented by pallets of beer next to the bar. Nothing will prepare you for the Church experience. Expect to be waiting in line at 11am on a Sunday morning for around an hour. When you get in the door you will be greeted by one of the Church Wardens who will take your £5 entry fee and point you in the direction of the bar. You will then head to the bar to get a six-pack and watch several thousand people fill the place. If it was cold outside, it will be hot and sweaty inside the Church. Entertainment consists of strippers and bad comedians although occasionally you get a good band.